How To Sew A Coaster with A Mitered Hem
Coasters are a quick and easy sewing project, perfect for the beginner sewist.
These coasters look like they’re a little more complicated to sew, but I actually find them easier to make and to get a polished finish than the typical “birthing method” (i.e. sewing right sides together and then turning right side out through an opening).
The mitered hem adds a nice detail and is simple to do.
Fabric coasters are a great item to use scraps of fabric and are ideal to sell at a craft fair or give as a gift.
If you’re planning to make these coasters as a gift, here are a few other ideas to give with it:
To sew
- mug cozies
- teapot cozy
- tea wallet (and put an assortment of tea packets in it)
- reusable tea bags
- tea towel (ruffled tea towel, double-sided tea towel, or fringed tea towel)
To buy
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- teacup or mug set
- A teapot (2-cup or 4-cup)
- A teapot, cup, and saucer set
- a tea set
Materials
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- Cotton or linen fabric (avoid synthetic materials)
- Thermal/heat-resistant batting (Insul-Bright or something similar) (this has “heat-reflective” properties) – this will help protect a table’s surface.
- Cotton thread
Tools
- Sewing machine
- Walking foot (this makes sewing with thicker materials, like batting, easier. This is the universal one I purchased for my Baby Lock, which is a different machine than what’s shown in the photos)
- Point turner / Hera marker (for marking quilting lines)
- Temporary fabric pen or chalk
- Temporary fabric adhesive
- Ruler (if buying a new ruler, be sure it’s in the measurement system you prefer; imperial or metric)
- Iron
- Scissors
- Pins or clips
Steps to sew a coaster with a mitered hem
Step 1
Cut out your fabric pieces. You will need:
- 4″ x 4″ in top fabric
- 4″ x 4″ in thermal batting
- 6-1/4 x 6-1/4″ in bottom fabric
Step 2
Use a temporary fabric pen to mark lines 1″ away from the four edges.
Fold the cut edges up to meet the lines and press into place.
Fold the hem in again, another 1/2″, using the first folded hem as a guide. Complete on all 4 sides.
Open the second hem (so your edges are only folded in once).
Then draw a line at a 45-degree angle across each corner. The center of the line should go right through the point of where the second folds meet/where the two raw edges intersect:
To draw your 45-degree lines, you can use a ruler that has a 45-degree marking on it:
Or you can fold the corner in, finger press, then draw along the crease:
Next, you’ll sew the corners to create the mitered hem. Fold one side of the coaster so the corner comes to a perfect point and the two edges are stacked on top of each other perfectly.
Sew along the drawn line.
You’ll do this for all 4 corners.
Shorten the stitch length on your sewing machine and start with the needle on the fabric, then backstitch to the start of the fabric. This ensures the fabric doesn’t bunch up as you start to sew.
Then sew to the end of the fabric and backstitch back onto the fabric. This ensures the ends of your thread will be hidden back in the hem (and won’t stick out along the edge of the hem).
Trim the seam allowance by cutting about 1/8″ away from the stitching.
Then cut straight across the top, about 1/8″ away from the stitching. This will reduce the bulk in the seam.
Turn the corners right side out and use a point turner to push them fully out. You can also pull on either side of the seam to ensure your seam sits flat.
Press your hem.
Step 3
Place your top fabric and thermal batting together (fabric facing right side up). Use temporary fabric adhesive if you have it to stop the layers from shifting as you sew.
Use a temporary fabric marker or Hera marker to mark your quilting lines. I’m sewing a simple X, but you can create any pattern you like (parallel lines, diamond pattern, grid, free form).
Sew along the drawn/creased lines to quilt your fabric and batting together.
Tip: When sewing from the point/corner, start with your needle on the fabric to ensure the fabric doesn’t bunch. You won’t see the very corner of this piece; it will be tucked under the hem. So it’s okay if your stitching doesn’t go right to the edge.
Step 4
Place your quilted square on top of your bottom hemmed fabric.
You should be able to see about 1/16″ – 1/8″ of your bottom hem around the top fabric. This will ensure the top square fits inside the hem and doesn’t push the hem out.
If you need to trim your top square, you can do that.
With the top square centred on the bottom square, lift the bottom hem to slide the edges of the top square under it.
Use a point turner to push the corners in and ensure they’re flat.
You may want to give the hem a quick press to ensure it’s flat for sewing.
Sew about 1/8″ in from the inside edge of the hem.
Start with long thread tails (so you can tie them in a knot) and don’t backstitch to start.
I like to start with my needle in the mitered seam.
Sew around the hem.
Before you come back around to the start, flip the starting corner up and pull on the bobbin thread so you see the loop of the top thread.
Pull on that loop to pull the top thread to the back of the coaster.
Tie the top thread and bobbin thread in a double knot and trim the excess threads close to the knot.
Don’t backstitch at the end. Leave the thread tails long.
Step 5
Pull on the bobbin thread so you can see the loop of the top thread.
Pull the top thread to the back. Tie the top and bottom threads in a double knot and trim close to the knot.
I find this gives the coaster a cleaner finish than backstitching at the start and end.
Give the coaster a light press.
And your coaster is complete!
